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(MENAFN - Arab times) Drawing from the extensive and vastly critical assortment of Mughal jewellery and jewelled objects within the al-Sabah collection, the lecture supplied a more robust understanding of the inventive and technological interplay between East and West at this pivotal second in time.
artwork Historian Hugo Miguel Crespo delivered a desirable lecture on 'Indian Jewellery and the Portuguese all through the upward push of the Mughal Empire' on the Yarmouk Cultural Centre on Monday evening as part of the Dar Al Athar Al Islamiyyah's twenty fourth cultural season.
Hugo Crespo specialises in Portuguese Renaissance fabric tradition and Asian decorative arts made for export to the european market or under Portuguese commission throughout the Age of Discovery. right through the present year, he posted selections, a huge e-book/catalogue with the Lisbon-based art dealers AR-PAB, Álvaro Roquette and Pedro Aguiar Branco, who concentrate on early Asian export art.
In his lecture, Crespo shared that the Portuguese voyages of exploration culminated within the institution of an annual maritime path to India. This period witnessed the rise of the Mughals and turned into the time when Indian jewellery first arrived in Europe by means of the India Run. Conversely, the appearance of exotic European objects on the court of Akbar brought about a sensation, and had a profound and lasting have an effect on on Mughal courtly paintings. Drawing from the huge and massively essential assortment of Mughal jewellery and jewelled objects within the al-Sabah collection, the lecture supplied an improved understanding of the creative and technological interplay between East and West at this pivotal second in time.
'In a time like the latest where new collections of Islamic paintings are being impulsively assembled, namely of Indian jewellery and jewelled objects of which many are suspected to be contemporary fakes and forgeries, collections such as the al-Sabah, have to be treasured for the enormous skills received from the look at of its objects', he stated.
He shared that numerous files and accounts have survived, about the acquisition of Asian jewellery and precious stones by means of royal collectors and different extremely good aristocratic Portuguese families all through the age of discovery. apart from some extra archival sources, purposeful guides for purchasing gemstones in Asia, were additionally circulated amongst Portuguese and different European traders and explorers embarking on the India run or the 'Carreira da Índia' in Portuguese, the name given to the fleet gadget responsible for the annual sailings that took vicinity between Lisbon and Portuguese ruled Asia.
soon after the exploratory voyage of Vasco da Gama in 1497-ninety nine, the Portuguese right away installation an everyday maritime connection with India. Lisbon would quickly at ease a number one place as a centre for the commerce and fashioning of gemstones specially Indian diamonds. Crespo mentioned that advantageous business situations and customs responsibilities supported these free trades as adverse to the circumstance in other Asian kingdoms the place the buying and selling of stones became strictly controlled through the Sovereign as a royal monopoly. truly, better stones constantly larger than 9 cts would all the time be reserved for the rulers and this explains why in established handiest smaller diamonds reached Europe earlier than the arrival of the Portuguese in India. He shared that was also valid for the trade of rubies which were even more prized than diamonds.
Goa, the port metropolis of southwest India, set between the present states of Maharashtra to the north and Karnataka to the south, was taken in 1510 from the Adil Shahi rulers of Bijapur, one of the most five sultanates of the Deccan and the whole southern peninsula of India. centered because the capital from 1530, Goa grew to become a vital centre for the exchange and distribution of gemstones and pearls, attracting goldsmiths, gem cutters and jewellers from all ingredients of Asia and Europe.
The well known position of Goa as one of the most critical gem change centres in early modern Asia remained unchallenged for a century as may be inferred from the account of the famous French gem dealer Jean-Baptiste Tavernier who visited India on a number of events in the mid-17th Century. He noted that Goa became previously the centre where the biggest trade in Asia took place in diamonds, rubies, sapphires, topazes and other gems. all of the miners and merchants would collect there they had received from the mines as they'd full liberty to promote them there of their personal country if they confirmed anything to their merchants can be compelled to provide gem stones for something expense the ruler set.
Following the ecu prototype, Crespo introduced a Portuguese whistle in gold work in kundan and set with rubies, diamonds and emeralds as one of first rate importance for the study of Indian jewellery of the length given its provenance attributed to the Goan creation as a result of its pleasing hybrid persona. Crespo estimated it to be of late 16th Century manufacture with special revealing qualities, the settings are embedded in the surface no longer in contrast to later Mughal creations yet the kundan method here is complemented with crown like projections. The gold floor is decorated with an tricky deep reduce and incredibly stylized floral pattern made with a sharp reducing gouache. each the surroundings and the engraved decoration unlike the general Mughal patterns and designs seems attribute of a delicate Indian coastal lifestyle.
Crespo shared that the same decorative and Indian aesthetic may well be followed within the gem's studded caps most specially in the use of unpolished octahedral diamond crystals set within the clamps connected to the body of the whistle. This equal use of diamond octahedral can also be considered in a mind-blowing finger ring set with diamonds in a cabochon cut ruby from the al Sabah assortment ca. 1550-1600.
He stated that one other very captivating point of the whistle is the use of European trend reduce diamonds that support Goa as its origin or at least element to a direct European have an effect on or commission. definitely, complex faceting of diamonds turned into a method unknown or at the least unpractised through local Indian diamond cutters before the appearance of the Portuguese, he recommended.
Curiously the diamonds used to kind the rings decorating the physique of the dragon and the pinnacle are hogbacks, lengthy slim diamonds with two leading swapping facets within the crown on exact assembly at an acute angle in a horizontal ridge and two identical facets within the pavilions. From elongated octahedral and hogback cut diamonds have been fantastic to form lines and have been utilized in Europe all through the century as tropes of letters as considered in a pendant from the late sixteenth Century depicting nails and a pass, present in the Victoria and Albert Museum assortment these days.
He shared that whereas there's a lot of documentation on the advent of the first items of Indian gem stones in the Lisbon courtroom, the fact that very few pieces of jewelry have survived from this early duration underscores simply how essential the look at of these archival files are for our understanding of the several types of jewels, their artistic great and the gem cutting styles used.
From the reign of Manuel I who died in 1591, there are some files invaluable of mention. probably the most entertaining of these particulars, Crespo highlights, is the diplomatic and political members of the family with the effective empire of Vijayanagar which extended over south India to the Deccan plateau. The letter from round 1506 from Vira Narasimha founder of the Tuluva Dynasty to Manuel I, addresses the Portuguese monarch as 'your brother Nanjarãao', demonstrates a excessive diploma of familiarity with the ecu king from the symbolic and diplomatic point of view. In his missive, Narasimha refers to Manuel I's 'Brahmin known as Friar Luís' the primary Portuguese missionary and ambassador to the capital metropolis of Vijayanagara, the Franciscan Friar Luís do Salvador, who arrived at the court of his father. The friar's arrival proved propitious for both emperors, collectively forging a crucial alliance in opposition t the Sultanate of Bahmani, and which become sealed by means of Narasimha by dispatching with Friar Luís do Salvador, 'two bangles and 6 items of material' for the Portuguese king's son, the younger Prince João, then aged five. traveling with the Franciscan, a servant of Narasimha came to Portugal bearing presents for Manuel I, together with gem studded necklaces, rings and costly items of material.
Crespo affirmed that these had been probably the first examples of jewelry made in the imperial metropolis of Vijayanagar to have reached Europe two decades before the primary primary Mughal getting into in Hindustan by means of Babur in 1526 when the first Mughal emperor defeated the combined forces of the Muslim sultan of Delhi and the Hindu raja of Gwalior on the plains of Panipat close Delhi.
On the nineteenth of December, 1513, Henrique Nunes de Leao, got from Goncalo Mendes, component of Calicut, a valuable belt for the king. bought in through the Portuguese Governor Afonso de Albuquerque the belt, arelhana, become a valuable piece of jewelry worn with the aid of Hindu kings to fasten the dhoti, i.e. the cloth that hung from the waist to the ankles. These belts are popular in Kerala as arapatta. This was a luxurious belt decorated with circular points like emeralds, rubies and diamonds weighing over a kilo. South Indian in fashion, this classification of jewelled belts are absent from the depiction of Mughal princes and noblemen, and might be viewed in contemporary paintings of the emperor Jahangir, the fourth Mughal emperor and son of Akbar the top notch.
With direct access to Asian gem stones and through an increasing funding in gem stones and luxurious jewelled pieces, the Portuguese Queen Catarina of Austria, converted her at the beginning modest dowry into one of the vital opulent jewellery collections in sixteenth Century Europe. Such entry was reinforced by using the residency of her goldsmith, Diogo Vaz, in Goa and Ceylon the place he arrived in 1545, with strict orders to supply the top-quality gems and supervise commissions of precious objects for the queen.
within the queen's noted portrait painted in 1552 by using Antonio Moro, the most striking piece is a brief necklace, la colar de las rosas, or 'the necklace of the roses' . This necklace inherited from Catarina's mother was certainly held in excessive esteem given the calibrated reduce diamonds adorning the centre of every rose which fashioned the rosettes. It demonstrates the excessive stage of mastery attained by way of European diamond cutters in the first a long time of the sixteenth Century, a technical prowess that may be judged from a surviving double rosette set in gold panel pendant that belonged to Anna of Denmark.
one of the vital entertaining files about the queen's expenditure on gemstones and which additionally displays the paperwork in the alternate of gems in sixteenth Century Lisbon is a chart drawn out in Lisbon and dated to 20 March, 1557. In it, Catarina of Austria authorises an expenditure of a large amount of money which her treasurer become to pay her candle maker for an uncut diamond bought in India the outdated 12 months. From the doc issued by means of the Casa de India, the particular customs condominium for Asian items, we recognize that the tough diamond weighed 11.forty five cts and 5.72 cts following its chopping and polishing. This represents the lack of 50% of the gross fabric and is a transparent indication of a enormously advanced diamond reducing method that sought to acquire stronger brilliance, fire and scintillation, contrary to the apply of Indian diamond cutters who strove to preserve the maximum weight and integrity of the gem.
additionally, a large uncut Indian diamond, most doubtless an eighty one carat diamond which the Portuguese king bought in 1549, is discussed in a letter addressed to Catarina of Austria from her court docket goldsmith and gem cutter who become accountable for cutting and sharpening the rough stone. To obtain his aim he set about chopping the diamond using lead casts of the rough as models and forming the eco-friendly.
Crespo shared that estimating the remaining weights become highly straightforward for the reason that lead weighs three times as lots as diamonds. given that the percentage of tough sacrifice will also be without difficulty concluded the rough weight of 81 carat, approximately the equal weight because the tough diamond got for the king. Gem chopping recommendations in certain for coloured gemstone have been definitely emerged in India and had been developed with expanding potential of optics, strong geometry and crystallography in the medieval Islamic world.
Following its introduction to Venice from the east in the late 14th Century, diamond cutting attained unsurpassed stages of sophistication in Europe all over the 16th Century. The skills of diamond cleaving formulation of splitting the diamond parallel to it path of the crystal with a single blow coupled with the use of perfectly good, horizontally placed polishing wheels, constantly rotating at excessive speeds, surpassed the common Indian reducing thoughts and tools which have been unable to deliver the pressure steadiness and velocity vital to polish diamonds to perfection.
due to the fact the heritage, chronology and weight of the stone, Crespo recognized a forty carat gem to be a desk cut diamond with a gem set in a hoop given with the aid of the Portuguese courtroom to Pope Julio III and sent to the Papal metropolis on the Aug eight, 1551.
Crespo confirmed a few examples of gigantic stones that are a testomony to the inventiveness of the cutters and the pattern complexities of the late sixteenth Century diamond reducing exhibiting amazing mild and shine.
He added that there are additionally documented references to Indian jewels and jewelled objects in the treasury of King Sebastian, the successor to the Portuguese throne. A gold dagger set with diamonds, rubies, emeralds and pearls, became given to the king in 1575 via Adil Shah I, Sultan of Bijapur. He confirmed the same dagger from the al Sabah assortment which is a customary Hindu dagger called a khapwa and favoured by way of the Mughal emperors as presentation weapons.
With its gem studded gold hilt set in kundan over a steel core, its Islamic category mosaic sample with rubies and nice coloured Iranian turquoises may be seen in Mughal miniatures from the first half of the seventeenth Century and its geometric style already in use all through the ultimate of the 16th Century turned into deployed at the same time as with other decorative schemes during the reign of Jahangir and his son Shah Jahan. It has been argued that this dagger is probably going to be Gujarati as we find the presence of turquoises combined with rubies within the jewels seized with the aid of the Portuguese in 1537 following the loss of life of Bahadur Shah, the Sultan of Gujarat. 'i would add that the character of the diamond pattern of interlocking circles which beautify the chamfered facet of the hilt additionally of Gujarati foundation', he brought.
Crespo pointed out that 1575 is a yr of wonderful significance for the analyze of the inventive relations between the Mughal court and the Portuguese. The activity for the firangis, or European creative accomplishments and European subculture all started when Emperor Akbar encountered the Portuguese in Diu following the Mughal conquest of Gujarat in 1572, when the emperor commissioned Portuguese trend outfits and had worn them with matching dagger and sword.
while Anotnio Moniz Barreto changed into governor of the Portuguese state of India, an embassy become sent in 1575 to Goa from Fatehpur Sikri. Its mission conducted over a two-12 months dwell and in accordance with Abu al-Fazal, poet and official historian of Akbar's reign was brought on by means of the Emperor's focus of many curiosities and rarities of the knowledgeable craftsmen of that country.
furthermore, the Ambassador was appointed to take with him a huge sum of money and selection articles of India to Goa and to carry for his majesty's delectation excellent things from that country. Many suave craftsmen have been sent with him who via capacity and skill brought business as a way to digest as the superb productions of that country had been being brought away. These inventive interactions would for this reason show inspirational additionally for the jewelled objects and jewellery made at the royal karkhanas and used on the Mughal court and its satellite tv for pc princely courts.
strategies comparable to European vogue enamelling on gold and silver have been introduced and simulated through the Portuguese provide of imported uncooked substances as referred to by way of Sir Thomas Roe in 1617, the English Ambassador who stayed in Jahangir's court docket from 1516-18.
Diamond chopping and engraving concepts had been carried out either by Europeans working in the Mughal courtroom or below their direct guide. Finely reduce agate cameo portrait depicting Shah Jahan is a sworn statement to European lapidaries working for the royal workshops as viewed from this illustration of al-Sabah assortment which also underscores the have an effect on of European vogue portrait medallions and mannerist style lockets with their delicately enamelled backs that bear have an impact on from the contemporary European embroidery called black work trend of stitching.
Crespo stated that little counsel exists on jewellery items and jewelled objects exchanged between the Mughal court and Portuguese before the end of the sixteenth Century. A enormously complex character in the Portuguese rule of Asia is the admiral and fourth count of Francisco da Gama, his very own historical past is of extremely good interest for the analyze of Indian jewellery and diamond processing and change throughout the time of the Mughals.
The wonderful grandson of Vasco da Gama, Francisco would serve twice as the Viceroy to the Portuguese state of India from 1597 to 1600 and once again from 1622-28. all over his tenure in Goa, and helped by means of the presence of Jesuits in the coronary heart of the empire, he dealt closely with the Mughal court docket first with the emperor Akbar and then together with his son Jahangir. He changed into also in direct contact with the Nizam Shahi rulers of the neighbouring Sultanate of Ahmednagar, with Ibrahim Adil shah of Bijapur and with the Sultans of Golconda.
Crespo published that the Viceroy changed into a major political platter within the Deccan all over the complicated first two many years of the seventeenth Century which saw the menacing Mughal expansion towards the south. Having a selected fondness for diamonds, the Viceroy would turn into essentially the most energetic in the trade, purchasing each rough and cut stones from Goan diamond cutters, gem merchants and goldsmiths. gemstones, which he then sent to individuals of his family unit and to his agents in Lisbon to sell. Surviving letters between viceroy from 1609 and 1612 Rui Lourenço de Távora and da Gama, published the nature of their diamond company. In January, 1609, the newly appointed viceroy secretly proposes to him that the profits from the admiral revenue in Goa would be used in a three way partnership for purchasing diamonds which would then be despatched to Lisbon on a each year foundation.
Rumours of illicit endeavor and the scale of his salary coupled with gossip on the courtroom by his enemies set in motion his removal from workplace and excommunication and comprehensive confiscation of his property. Thorough inquiries ensued pursued through the authorities obtaining counsel in regards to the viceroy's dealings in valuable jewellery and gemstones. the most terrific gem cutters and jewellers were investigated and their testimonies are of large importance for the historical past of the gem change in Goa right through this length.
When the viceroy was arrested and his property confiscated, his assets were cautiously listed and described in a list. Alongside many items of jewellery, installed and un-set up bezoar stones had been several rough diamonds sorted by means of weight and packed in small circular containers stored inner the in part published silver lined cupboards. other than a diamond ring with a side stone of 11 cts, the authorities discovered 8 diamonds weighing 59 cts, four weighing 15 cts, twenty weighing 109 cts and so forth, one octahedron of 19 cts and two octahedrons weighing 12 cts.
'From this checklist, we comprehend that the viceroy had in his possession stones which ranged in 18 to 3 cts weight, the admiral's leading broking in jewellery, gemstones and valuable objects in Goa turned into a diamond cutter who no longer only gave his testimony on the viceroy's purchases of valuable gemstones but submitted a detailed list of the titles he made and bought to the viceroy all through his second time period', Crespo brought up.
'no longer fantastically, we find references to kundan in the viceroy's inventory', he endured, suggesting a Mughal starting place for these pieces regardless of their European personality. Of European form, he offered a marvelous ceremonial spoon which dates from the last years of Akbar's reign, modelled after a silver prototype, its decoration epitomizes the hybrid character of Mughal art whereas it be craftsmanship attests to the technical virtuosity reached within the imperial workshops now not simplest within the genuine slicing of the inlaid gem stones however additionally in the minutely engraved decoration of the gold surface which foreshadows the looser, floral trend that blossomed all the way through the reign of Jahangir.
He stated that the certainly Iranian nature of its floral decoration has been sufficiently emphasized and follows the extra rigid floral patterns of Timurid and early Safavid art which aspects chinese motifs such as the stylised lotus flower used in the commonly circulated Yuan or early Ming dynasties, later copied in Iran and Turkey. youngsters using a native century ancient tapered sample of interlocking circles, a motif present in medieval cottons, made in Gujarat have similar patterns. The large ranging Islamic connections are additionally apparent in the geometric trellis sample used on the again of the handle which is reminiscent of perforated stone latticed displays which might be characteristic of the court docket architecture of the Deccan sultanate and Mughal India. essentially the most extraordinary point, he shared, other than the use of unpolished minute diamond octahedron on the filial, is the advanced pattern of the faceted diamonds that crowns the gems.
'As I have stressed out already, considerable surviving proof indicates that complicated diamond cuts have been now not in the attain of the contraptions and materials utilized in India on the time such as the vertically placed sharpening wheels that are even nowadays used.' He pointed to the barriers of Indian diamond cutting know-how as evidently evidenced within the polishing of the Shah diamonds.
extra revealing is the polishing of the so referred to as Shah Jahan diamond from the al Sabah assortment, an amulet formed flat stone convincingly recognized from a miniature portrait of the emperor aged 25. The 56.6 ct gem stands as testimony with its a bit of crude faceting and hasty sprucing as may well be considered from the stones tremendously grooved, polished strains and surface.
'In different surviving items of Mughal jewellery and jewelled objects, we locate European reduce diamonds. Their presence isn't mind-blowing as European lapidaries had been at Akbar's court docket and in around 1622 Jahangir paid the Jesuits to reduce some diamonds in his treasury', he remarked.
In a gem studded gold lock from the scabbard of the katar dagger within the al-Sabah assortment featuring a huge rose stylised lotus and Ottoman trend carnations, following a looser floral ornamental scheme average of Jahangir's reign, he pointed to a few obviously European reduce diamonds. youngsters, the kundan atmosphere of the critical diamond can also have been transformed at some point, might be due to its huge measurement, the stone looks modern with their surroundings, he mentioned.
whereas some of the diamonds forming the lotus petals might possibly be characterized as unwell shaped rose cuts with their general triangular aspects, the significant stone elements lotus formed aspects and can be recognized with the late 16th Century v cut. completely polished rose reduce diamonds most definitely of European manufacture have been shown in one more example of mind-blowing double bracelets clasps in the al Sabah assortment from the primary decade of the 17th Century.
Francis da Gama's stock suggests that rose cut diamonds have been already favoured in Goa in the late 1620s. it's accordingly tempting to posit a Goan origin to the rose cuts utilized in these early Mughal items of jewelry, of which many important examples belong to the al Sabah collection, he concluded.
by way of Cinatra AlvaresArab times StaffPhotographs courtesy of the al-Sabah collection
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CIW [18 Certification Exam(s) ]
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College-Board [2 Certification Exam(s) ]
CompTIA [79 Certification Exam(s) ]
ComputerAssociates [6 Certification Exam(s) ]
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Counselor [4 Certification Exam(s) ]
CPP-Institute [4 Certification Exam(s) ]
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CWNA [1 Certification Exam(s) ]
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FCTC [2 Certification Exam(s) ]
Filemaker [9 Certification Exam(s) ]
Financial [36 Certification Exam(s) ]
Food [4 Certification Exam(s) ]
Fortinet [16 Certification Exam(s) ]
Foundry [6 Certification Exam(s) ]
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Google [5 Certification Exam(s) ]
GuidanceSoftware [2 Certification Exam(s) ]
H3C [1 Certification Exam(s) ]
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Healthcare [3 Certification Exam(s) ]
HIPAA [2 Certification Exam(s) ]
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HP [753 Certification Exam(s) ]
HR [4 Certification Exam(s) ]
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Hyperion [10 Certification Exam(s) ]
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IBM [1535 Certification Exam(s) ]
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Intel [2 Certification Exam(s) ]
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McData [3 Certification Exam(s) ]
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Microsoft [387 Certification Exam(s) ]
Mile2 [3 Certification Exam(s) ]
Military [1 Certification Exam(s) ]
Misc [1 Certification Exam(s) ]
Motorola [7 Certification Exam(s) ]
mySQL [4 Certification Exam(s) ]
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NCLEX [3 Certification Exam(s) ]
Network-General [12 Certification Exam(s) ]
NetworkAppliance [39 Certification Exam(s) ]
NI [1 Certification Exam(s) ]
NIELIT [1 Certification Exam(s) ]
Nokia [6 Certification Exam(s) ]
Nortel [130 Certification Exam(s) ]
Novell [37 Certification Exam(s) ]
OMG [10 Certification Exam(s) ]
Oracle [299 Certification Exam(s) ]
P&C [2 Certification Exam(s) ]
Palo-Alto [4 Certification Exam(s) ]
PARCC [1 Certification Exam(s) ]
PayPal [1 Certification Exam(s) ]
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PMI [16 Certification Exam(s) ]
Polycom [2 Certification Exam(s) ]
PostgreSQL-CE [1 Certification Exam(s) ]
Prince2 [7 Certification Exam(s) ]
PRMIA [1 Certification Exam(s) ]
PsychCorp [1 Certification Exam(s) ]
PTCB [2 Certification Exam(s) ]
QAI [1 Certification Exam(s) ]
QlikView [1 Certification Exam(s) ]
Quality-Assurance [7 Certification Exam(s) ]
RACC [1 Certification Exam(s) ]
Real Estate [1 Certification Exam(s) ]
Real-Estate [1 Certification Exam(s) ]
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RES [5 Certification Exam(s) ]
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SASInstitute [15 Certification Exam(s) ]
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See-Beyond [1 Certification Exam(s) ]
Siemens [1 Certification Exam(s) ]
Snia [7 Certification Exam(s) ]
SOA [15 Certification Exam(s) ]
Social-Work-Board [4 Certification Exam(s) ]
SpringSource [1 Certification Exam(s) ]
SUN [63 Certification Exam(s) ]
SUSE [1 Certification Exam(s) ]
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Symantec [136 Certification Exam(s) ]
Teacher-Certification [4 Certification Exam(s) ]
The-Open-Group [8 Certification Exam(s) ]
TIA [3 Certification Exam(s) ]
Tibco [18 Certification Exam(s) ]
Trainers [3 Certification Exam(s) ]
Trend [1 Certification Exam(s) ]
TruSecure [1 Certification Exam(s) ]
USMLE [1 Certification Exam(s) ]
VCE [7 Certification Exam(s) ]
Veeam [2 Certification Exam(s) ]
Veritas [33 Certification Exam(s) ]
Vmware [63 Certification Exam(s) ]
Wonderlic [2 Certification Exam(s) ]
Worldatwork [2 Certification Exam(s) ]
XML-Master [3 Certification Exam(s) ]
Zend [6 Certification Exam(s) ]
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